Q: I recently applied a sheet of "peel and stick" veneer to a cabinet end panel. The cabinet looked fine from time of application until several weeks after installation. Now many bubbles appear under the veneer. How can I avoid this in the future?

Q: What causes end checking in lumber and how can I minimize it?

Q: I have a rip-first mill with a Comp-U-Rip input. We have received advice and suggestions from several people about how to handle lumber that has side bend. What do you suggest?

CabinetMakerFDM Woodworking Business E-vent slated for November 18 has an interface that looks a lot like a video game. It brings conferences, networking, as well as supplier exhibits and representatives to you rather than forcing you to travel to them.

Q: Can you recommend something to eradicate wood worms before they transfer to another piece of furniture? The infected piece is a large rectangular table that we made. The homeowner called and I saw the damage. I cannot heat the table to 140 F because the table is so large, so what else can I do?

Q: I am using hard maple lumber and our design requires the wood to be as white as possible. Indeed, the lumber looks white when it is kiln dried and rough, but after we plane it, it is darker (almost gray). The light color we want is only on the outside. I have several questions about our drying operation. 1. Can hard maple be kiln dried in the summer when it is very humid and hot? 2. Should the sawmill sticker the lumber right after they saw it, dry it for a few days to a week, then unstack it and ship it to us, and then we restack it? 3. Is there a part of the country that grows whiter maple?